La Bella Italia: Panzanella Salad from la cucina povera

Always the freshest produce at the Italian market

Necessity, as they say, is the mother of invention.

Born to Italian immigrants, I saw this first hand growing up. We reused and recycled long before it was fashionable; everything was saved and nothing went to waste. Nowhere was that more apparent than around food. The parmigiano rind went into the soup, adding depth and richness of flavour. Drippings were carefully strained and preserved. Coffee grinds and egg shells made a rich compost, the better to grow our tomatoes, zucchini and peppers.

That is also how the most delicious of Italian dishes have been born. La cucina povera – literally the poor kitchen – is represented by those dishes where a little had to go a long way, a piece of meat was precious, scarce and longed for, and nothing ever went to waste. Pappa al pomodoro – bread and tomato soup. Risi e bisi – rice and beans. Acquacotta – literally “cooked water” soup, into which all of the day’s scraps were combined to make a warming (and delicious) broth.

Rolling Tuscan hills as far as the eye can see at Fattoria di Montalbano

The view at breakfast - an idyllic spot to start the day

We began our recent two week Italian holiday in an agriturismo just south of Florence – Fattoria di Montalbano. We had rented Il Trebbiali, a six bedroom villa on the grounds of the Nustrini farm. Charming, comfortable and with a big homey Tuscan kitchen, I had visions of cooking up a storm of Italian delicacies. As it happened, dinner was more often than not a gorgeous plate of salume and cheese, accompanied by delicious Chianti.

Enjoying a sundowner at Il Trebbiali

On our last night at Il Trebbiali, we planned to use the last of what was in the fridge. And so it was that I experienced firsthand la cucina povera. Upon inspection, there wasn’t much left, but I knew what was there would be great. I’d assemble a plate of the remaining finocchiona, prosciutto and pecorino; the fresh sausages we bought at the local marcelleria would be grilled, and we’d finish with perhaps my favourite of the cucina povera repertoire: panzanella – a tomato, bread and cucumber salad that humbly combines a handful of ingredients into a splendid dish.

Panzanella Salad
serves four comfortably, and two greedily

A half a loaf or more of good quality day old Italian bread. The bread must be old; this is not the time to use a fresh loaf
Olive oil
One garlic clove, cut in half
6-8 really ripe but firm tomatoes. Forget the hard tasteless fruits of winter and greenhouses
1 English cucumber
4-6 leaves fresh basil, torn
More olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Slice the bread into thick pieces. Rub the cut clove over one side and generously brush both sides of the bread with olive oil. Grill the bread over a charcoal grill, turning the pieces until both sides are browned and toasted. Set bread aside to cool.

2. Roughly chop the tomatoes and put them in a large serving bowl. Some recipes for panzanella call for the tomatoes to be peeled and seeded; I say - this is a rustic salad. La mamma would have dispensed with such niceties when trying to feed a hungry family.

3. Trim the cucumber and chop into bite sized pieces. Add to the tomatoes. Add the basil.

4. Cut the bread into large crouton-style cubes. Add to the tomatoes and toss all three ingredients until well combined.

5. Add a generous amount of olive oil (at least 2 tbsp) and salt and pepper to taste. Toss, taste and adjust seasonings if necessary.

The salad can be made ahead, enough so that the juices develop and the bread absorbs some of the tomato flavour but not so much that you have soggy bread.  If you are making ahead, add the basil just before serving and give a final toss to combine ingredients.

Serve at the end of a Tuscan meal, preferably during sunset, and finish with a delightful bottle of Chianti.

Buon appetito!

Flower Power: Pasta with Zucchini Flowers, inspired by La Bella Italia

If I could pinpoint one thing that I love about Italy – one word that sums up the feeling I have there – it’s leisurely. Lunch is a two hour affair. One lingers over a coffee as long as a three course meal. Yet things move simultaneously fast and in slow motion. That exquisite first slither of pasta. A waiter rushing past to make sure the plates get to the table HOT. You are surrounded by an energy that centres on the plate. And because so much time is taken up in eating – eating deliberately and joyfully – there must be real satisfaction in it.

Our lunch at Trattoria Quattro Leoni in Florence was the perfect manifestation of all of that. Like many of the city’s best osterie and trattorie, it’s been around forever. Well, 1550, to be exact. My guess is that there are items on the menu that aren’t that far off from what a poor struggling Renaissance artist might have enjoyed those many years ago. 

Here's a visual tour of our lunch...

A mixed plate of Crostini misti of course featured beans and lardo

No surprise that I chose Antipasti toscano: affetati e crostini di fegato

(assorted cured meats and a delicious chicken liver crostini that is unquely Tuscan)

Penne al sugo alla toscana

Pici alla salsiccia e finocchietto

This was definitely the "winner".  Pici is a thick, hand rolled pasta - think spaghetti on steroids.  The gorgeous sauce had two types of sausage.

The place was renovated in 1995, but it still retains an air of authenticity. Who matters as much as what...here’s what Quattro Leoni’s website says about the trattoria’s manager:

Stefano di Puccio is the actual manager of the Quattro Leoni. He is well known in the city not only for his past activity as a player of the Historical Florentine Soccer, but also for his inclination to cooking, his sincere hospitality and he is a very nice guy.

Football, hospitality, plus he’s a nice guy. What more could you want a pranzare?

Here’s another take on fabulous pici from Fabio Bongianni, complete with step by step photos of how to make your own pici. Pici Pachino, Porcini e Fiori di Zucca. 

While I didn’t make my own pasta today, I also took advantage of the market's bounty of zucchini flowers to create a wonderful pasta dish for lunch today, inspired by Ottolenghi. Sitting outside with friends, sipping wine and idling the afternoon away was almost as good as being in la bella Italia.

Torchietti with Zucchini
serves four as an appetiser portion

One of my guests is a vegan, and this pasta (made with dried semolina pasta) is perfect, with grated cheese optional for your other diners.

⅓ c olive oil, plus ¼ c
Flour, about ¼ c
6 baby zucchini
9-12 fresh zucchini flowers
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
½ c frozen edamame beans
6-8 large basil leaves, plus extra for garnish
¼ c chopped Italian parsley
2-3 sprigs fresh marjoram
250 g good quality dried pasta
Grated zest of one lemon
2 tbsp capers, rinsed and drained
Salt and pepper to taste
Grated Parmigiano Reggiano, optional

1. Trim and slice the zucchini lengthwise into thin slices. Dredge very lightly in the flour, shaking to remove excess flour. Set aside on a clean plate.

2. Prepare the zucchini flowers. Open the flowers gently and remove the pistils. Set aside.

3. In a medium skillet, heat ⅓ c olive oil over medium heat. Gently fry the zucchini until lightly browned, and turn to brown both sides. The zucchini will turn brown quickly. Remove with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl.

4. In the same pan, quickly fry the zucchini flowers until they are just wilted (they do need to be dredged in flour). Place in the same bowl with the zucchini slices, pour the sherry on top, stir and set aside.

5. Steam or blanch the edamame for a few minutes until they are barely tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and set aside.

6. Combine the basil, parsley and olive oil in a small food processor and blend to form a thick paste. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

7. Cook the pasta according to directions in salted boiling water. When the pasta is al dente, drain, and return it to the hot pan, shaking to dry slightly. Immediately add the basil/parsley sauce, and then add the zucchini, edamame, lemon zest and capers. Stir to combine and serve.

La Bella Italia - Benvenuti a Firenze!

Our two week trip to Italy began and ended in Firenze – that most magical of medieval cities.

Of all the Italian cities I’ve visited, Florence is the one that has been slowest to capture my heart. Richard and I came to Italy shortly after we were married, spending almost a month, clocking nearly 3000 km on our small rented car. Back then Florence was much more indifferent to tourists, less willing to show the warm generosity of spirit that seems innate to all Italians.

But piano piano - slowly slowly - with each successive visit, the city reveals itself. Shunning modernity, proudly still Italy’s cultural capital if not its commercial one, the city is reflected in its citizens. Quick witted, practical and a bit self-deprecating, the pride of the de Medicis and the city’s glorious past are present in every Florentine, and even those not born there seem to have a bit of Dante, Leonardo and Machiavelli running through their veins.

Where else but in Italy do the policemen look so elegant?

We’d “done” the sights on previous visits – the David, the Uffizi, the Pitti Palace – of course the Duomo, climbing every one of those 463 stairs to the top. I can remember the first time I saw that enormous Duomo many years ago, and the sight of it still amazes me. It seems impossibly big, the buildings that surround it appearing almost superimposed against the rich red stone.

Brunelleschi's Duomo, appearing on the skyline like a mirage

This time, there was no set agenda, no list of top ten sights to see. We would let the city lead us, and for that, we followed our noses. 

We started right in our own backyard - or in this case, our own 15th century palazzo, the place we would call home for a few precious days.  The Four Seasons hotel in Florence, barely open two years, is a perfectly placed jewel in the city's centre, just 15 minutes from the Duomo.  Set in the largest private garden in Florence, the hotel is both palace and cozy retreat, filled with staff that are warm, friendly and welcoming, and - best of all - a chef that is passionate about food.

A panoramic view of the courtyard lobby at the Four Seasons

World Cup action in a beautiful al fresco setting

Favourite drinks quickly established: Hendricks and Fever-Tree tonic for the gentleman; a Valentino for the lady (a fancy version of a Negroni) 

  

Vitello tonnato at Al Fresco

Beef carpaccio with the season's tenderest arugula

Fresh pineapple juice - smooth and creamy as a milkshake

To share...a scampi and asparagus risotto that's just the right size.

...and a beautiful view to make the meal complete

That lunch was the perfect way to start our Italian eating adventures.  Next chapter....watching the World Cup with thirteen hunchbacks; snacking Italian-style for lunch and devouring pasta with four lions.

Italy Bound!

On my way to Italy for two glorious weeks, where I hope to eat lots of amazing food. And hopefully catch up on some blog posts that have been laying fallow. Follow me on Twitter for the blow by blow - or should I say bite by bite? A presto, tutti!